LT1 stalling

[Encryptshun]

update, the car idles and doesnt surge when the car is warm. the car seems to me it goes in closed loop because it runs alot smoother. its just in the morning or when i come back from work and start it, it runs like poo, and backfire gurgles and surges up to lik 2000 rpms when the car idles too low until you get on it. but the car does run alot smoother and the idle is around 900 when the car is warm. i dunno why it didnt go into closed loop the other time, but im pretty positive it goes into closed loop eventually, its just when its open loop is the problem. oh, and the driving by-itself up to like 30mph is kinda cool, dont have to touch the pedal. i think i need new brakes cuz i need alot of pressure to stop this thing cuz it wants to pull the car forward

[2fast4u88]

he mentioned to me yesterday that he has a misfire, im thinking he needs a new opti, and some plugs hes running autolites

True... Probably the plugs though by the sounds of it. Now the reason you think you need breaks is because of the high idle and problem not vaccum really. If I'm also not mistaken. If the car sets a check engine light for the o2 it will not go into closed loop. Unless you shut the car off and start it back up. Where the o2s will be hot enough to show the computer they are working.

What could be happening is the o2 just aren't hot enough but still goes into closed loop. But the o2s are giving it bad readings till the start getting hotter.

[LeeroyJenkins]

I said 255 is suppose to be the max. It depends on who you ask and what you are told on all the forums out there and even shoe has said that it supposably goes to 255. But then 160 is also said to be the max it goes to. See what I'm saying everyone says 160 is the max but supposably goes to 255. If it does or not I couldn't tell you since I've never seen it. I have seen it hit 160 and stay there. No higher at all. Even though either of the programs goes to 255 doesn't mean the car in ? does.

Though as I said it may go that high I just never seen it. I know mine didn't on the 383 when I was playing with the butterflys. And yes I am sure it works that way. As I said the whole time with a vaccum leak on a speed density it will close the iac to correct for a vaccum leak since it will cause a high idle.

If it was a maf system the slightest leak will cause more problems along the line of stalling. To the point it won't run period. I also told you it won't go in closed loop because of the o2 failure. That is if the code it active when it trys too.

Leeroy dumb ? why did you just set here and say the same thing I did about the iac. You said I was wrong about? I thought you couldn't look at the iac? Now of course I didn't see any log where it was commanding the iac to 0 though. The one I seen it was being commanded open. Which was the difference. The iac was bad which I had figured from a high iac count and vaccum leaks. Where it should have been the opposite. That was what I was tryinging to say the whole time.

If it was working right. And no one played with the butterfly set screw to set the tps to .63 it probably would have been a good thing to go off to tell you the problem.

mimimimimi what are you saying? I can't say that i'm following on what i'm being a hypocrite about?

[2fast4u88]

Nevermind. I'm not worried about it.

[Encryptshun]

well it wasnt the Opti causing the backfiring and surging. i have no clue

[XtremeOracing]

well it wasnt the Opti causing the backfiring and surging. i have no clue

The car is still not running!???

[mmd8x28]

Here's my findings: A lot of burnt wires on the ECM, including IAC, which can contribute to it's high sucking of air, and the ECM would never know if the wires are burnt in the first place. Several spark plugs were loose, one spark wire burnt on headers and arcing. I fixed the spark plugs and wires (as much as I could without a universal jointed ratchet), still same thing.

No alternator, power steering, or water pump. We tried to push it in the garage, but it was far too hard to do. We only started it quick enough to drive into garage, of which I had to take over and double foot because it kept stalling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fk11IyGoRFg

Back to square one, with the new opti and repairs on what I stated above..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgHBkd4LiGE

It NEEDS a new harness first and foremost I feel at this point. Without a good harness you'd never know for sure what's going on.

[XtremeOracing]

It NEEDS a new harness first and foremost I feel at this point. Without a good harness you'd never know for sure what's going on.

I suggest you start from here... after you got a new harness then start troubleshooting.

[mmd8x28]

I agree. Now he can either get a new engine, PCM, OBD2 style for about 1k, or just replace this entire harness and hope for the best.

I think harness if cheap enough is a good start.

[2fast4u88]

Just repair the wires. Don't replace the harness. Or you may cause more problems. The harness also won't be that easy to change. Not hard but not easy. I wish I could help you all out. But that isn't going to happen. Have xtreme ride down and see if it is really knocking. I sent you a pm also...